Everyone ask me how to go about finishing the basement if they want to do it themselves and hire helpful sub-contractors. This removes the builders profits if you are not using a general contractor and you can share the savings with me if you want. I’ve outlined the basic steps below but remember inspections and quality control is needed as you orchestrate this task.

This topic is also at: How To Finish A Basement Yourself   https://basementdesigner.com/how-to-finish-a-basement-yourself/

DIY Order of Construction Process or Phases step by step building the basement

Orchestration of building a basement or any remodeling and or construction job is simple after you gather at least 3 bids for each phase below. Make sure each sub-contractor you hire has liability insurance and more than 15 references each. Should always get 3-4 quotes for each phase. Call the references and even invite yourself out to view the sub-contractor’s work. Most proud customers of the sub are happy to show off their work. Then talk about scheduling and if they fit into the scope of work. If don’t offer a lien waiver before you pay for their work, ask for this or worry. Most basements should only take about 6 weeks to complete. I’m sure you can find a good YouTube to watch for any of these phases below if you’re a DIY person. At anytime you want to read my other blogs on basements, use this link and scroll down to the topic you want; https://basementdesigner.com/category/basement-topics/ Before anything else below, have me design the space for you to assure it’s planned out correctly and to avoid costly rework due to guessing where things go. Permits are required and a plan is needed to get the permit with.

1. Engineering if required. Plans must be submitted with any attached engineering only if something changed something structurally like wanting to remove a post or bearing wall. Please don’t attempt this without engineering and a plan. Normally a basement finish requires no engineering.
2. Plumber should start preparing to adjust any drains and rough-drains. Not final layout until rough framing is in place for him to measure off of and adjust all floor drains and stacks coming out of the floor. Concrete may need to be busted up in the area’s drains are needed depending on the plan and what’s existing. Sometimes just moved a bit. Needs inspection with test typically. Then openings can be back filled and new cement put back in if pressure test is passed.
3. Egress Windows; If any work is needed regarding egress windows or doors, this is prepared now. Egress is simple to do per the plan; hire temporary labor service to dig after calling Miss Digs or whoever in your area does underground location service for free. Hire concrete saw cutting company, this is typically just a rate per linier foot. Should cut about 3” over the size of window needed per plan to allow installing 2X8 pressure treated lumber as the window frame. Install temporary plywood, window well and back fill soil. Order window. If tall enough, a double hung works but most my plans show just cutting straight down from the existing window and installing a casement type (cranks out).
4. Rough framing; this would include any framing at the stairs as well as all other walls per plan and soffits. Your cost will be lower if your perimeter is already framed. Before framing if you plan on installing foam panels on the walls, do this now. Also, HVAC work might be needed before framing in some cases; HVAC normally speaking only requires adding simple 6” heat runs off the existing system and a new cold air return so framing can stop before soffits are made or typically after as it’s not in the way and indicates to the HVAC guys that they need to cut the tops of the main duct, add an elbow and keep the runs in the joist cavity. If adding things like zone control dampers and or moving the main ducts. This should be done before framing and if this wasn’t in the initial plans, have the plans revised after moving and or modifying the system which becomes a new plan/idea. Always remember that anything touching concrete needs to be either pressure treated lumber, plastic or foam. Normal lumber rots if moisture keeps going into it. Framing should be done professionally and I like 16” on center studs more than 24” on center framing as it’s a bit strong and doesn’t really cost much more. Not a fan of steel as it expands and contracts and can make noise. Plus it’s hard to hang pictures, attached moldings and hang doors. There are many YouTube videos now to show “basement framing” and will show you how easy it is.
5. After rough framing, the plumber comes back to finalize his rough drains leaving any trenches open for inspection until passed. Install any gas lines if any. He knows what test the city wants to see proving the new drains don’t leak. They may or may not require this test. He can install all water lines as well at this phase. After inspection passes, he can fill in the floor if concrete is needed as mentioned above.
6. Your permit department may have an outline as well to all of this but typically at the completion of framing, they want to inspect it but some cities allow this framing inspection with all mechanical which would include HVAC work (heating and cooling), plumbing and electrical roughed in. If so, continue with the following.
7. HVAC guys comes in before electrician. Heat runs need to be placed mostly off the main lines in six inch ducts running to the perimeter walls if possible. A cold air return should be installed as well for good air flow. Do read my supplemental heating blog. https://basementdesigner.com/?s=supplemental+heating+
8. Electrician is after HVAC and last of the mechanical work so all those before him don’t damage his wires. This must be inspected before walls can be insulated and or covered up.
9. After all rough framing, plumbing, HVAC and electrical. If you’re signed off to continue with insulation. They may require another inspection to see the insulation was installed correctly.
10. Then you get permission to drywall. They may require an inspection to make sure you installed enough screws/nails in the field of each sheet of drywall. Note: code only requires ½” but you are allowed to go thicker especially on the ceilings for both better sound proofing and longer fire retention.
11. At this stage and a messy stage of sanding and taping and texturing the drywall if any and before you start trim/finished carpentry; it’s best to have the primmer paint sprayed on all raw drywall since little masking is needed. Just note: turn off heating unit during any sanding, then change cheap paper filter after each day of sanding to try and I said try to reduce the dust elsewhere.
12. Trim and finished carpentry guy also hang the doors, installs moldings and cabinets and such. You could put the finished paint on before trim depending on if it’s stained trim or painted trim. If paint grade moldings/trim you can just paint it all after installation. Sometimes it’s easier to paint all the walls before installing moldings such as baseboard and casing especially if stained woodwork. Painted trim too for some professionals as they will put the repainted trim up, caulk it in and then just touch up. Others prefer to tape and mask off everything after wall color is applied and either spray or brush on trim paint. If carpet is going down and this is last, trim/molding can be installed. If tile, LVP and or wood flooring; this must be installed before trim or baseboard moldings go in. Make sure any prep work needed for the flooring type used is implemented such as leveling and or underlayment.

13. During all this work after drywall, there isn’t another inspection. You’ll have the plumber and electrician and HVAC guy come back to finish the final electrical, plumbing and finished vents.
14. Basically, you don’t call for a final until it’s a finished job. Can’t assess new taxes either until you call (years later) if you get my drift.

Remember, flooring is not required to get your final if inspected. You are also free to add things at your own risk after a final inspection.

So follow this at best or improvise, it’s truly the best you can do to keep cost down along with your selection of materials. Send any savings to me. Kidding but send finished photos after you move in to the new space.

Make sure you read How to finish a basement 101; https://basementdesigner.com/how-to-finish-a-basement-101/

And if you have a professional design then read Basement Finishing 102; https://basementdesigner.com/basement-finishing-102/